The exhibition itself was a complete immersion into a retrospective of London subculture from the 1980's to present day. I have grown up in London and find the creative scene there fascinating, therefore this exhibition was the perfect opportunity for me to understand its history.
The exhibition was made up of mostly videos and 'Latrines' (cases to arrange objects in). The content of each latrine was curated by a different artist or designer.
The starting point of the exhibition was a photo taken by in the 1980's by the British Artist Nicola Tyson of the fashion designers Judy Blame John Moore scavenging for materials at the bank of the river Thames. This photo symbolises the resourcefulness and innovation of British creative talent.
Judy Blame and John Moore beachcombing under Blackfriars Bridge 1983, photo by Nicola Tyson
These two designers, along with Chrisopher Nemeth, founded the Dalston based art collective "House of Beauty and Culture" in the late 1980's, creating clothing and accessorise based on customisation and reclamation.
These are some photos that I took of their latrine which was filled with found objects and photos of the artists and their work. I was curated by Dave Bably.
Leading on from this was a film made by Paul Ormond, entitled Andy the Furniture Maker 1987) which was part of Channel 4's pioneering 6 Of Hearts series. This film follows the life of Andy, who was originally an oyster fishermen from Brightlingsea, who moved to London and became a rent boy whilst making furniture from salvaged materials. I was really inspired by this video as I thought Andy had a great personal style (high waisted jeans, white-tshirt, leather jacket, DM Shoes, small hoop earring and short back and sides hair cut) I also really admired how resourceful he was with his creativity by creating very modern looking furniture from old shipwreck wood.
Stills from "Andy the Furniture Maker"
In contrast, a large part of the creative scene in 1980's London was very glamorous and extravagant. In the underground, high-fashion and opulence was very important led by clubs such as Blitz, Taboo, The Cha Cha Club and Heaven, where only people with the most impressive outfits were allowed to pass through the doors and the crowd was largely fashion students from Central St. Martins, who would often design and make an outfit each time they went out. The pin-ups for this scene included popular underground models Scarlett Cannon and Princess Julia, performance artist Leigh Bowery and Pop star Boy George.
Leigh Bowery and Boy George
Scarlett Cannon
Princess Julia
This fashion industry quickly latched on to this bold creativity, resourcefulness and innovation, which led to the rise of avante garde labels such as Body Map and John Crancher, which were like the British equivalent to Comme des Garcons. Bodymap was founded by British designers David Holah and Stevie Stewart and was famous for its innovative knitwear, modern silhouettes, clever layering and bold pattern.
Body Map Video
Moodboards from the Body Map latrine
John Crancher made re-worked clothing with a DIY post-punk aesthetic. His clothes were sold in Kensington Market before he presented two shows in London fashion week during the mid 80's.
A t-shirt designed by John Crancher for i-D Magazine
By the late 1980's the underground club scene had evolved into a more minimal Acid House scene, which led the way to 90's rave subculture. Acid House was started around 1985 by cult club nights like Delirium and Heaven on the Charing Cross Road and the Camden Palace which is now know as KOKO. Delirium started as a Hip-Hop night and iconic 80's hip -hop artists Run DMC, LL Cool J, The Beastie Boys and Master Jam J featured at the opening.
The Acid House era latrine
Run DMC at the opening night of Delirium
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